This tutorial demonstrates how to construct three different bands that make heavy use of basic orbital connections. They are fairly simple to make, however the ring size requirements for them can be pretty specific. The real prize here is the theory behind these weaves and that upon completion, the bands can be continued into sheets (see https://chainmaillers.com/resources/orbital-sheets.441/).
Weave Structure/Grain Theory:
These bands are differentiated by their "Grain" types, which affect their overall appearance and behaviour. The outside edges of the band (plain aluminum) will be referred to as the "Spinal Grain". The purple rings make up the "Orbital Grain". Sandwiched in between each pair of orbital rings is a much smaller ring. Each band contains five rings per cell. Grain types are interchangeable, which increases the number of possibilities considerably beyond the three demonstrated in this article.
Four Spinal Grain types are possible (when the edge rings are singled): Lean, Step, Twist, and Spiral, the former two of which use "AR-locking". The Orbital Grain of these bands, on the other hand must be doubled, with each orbital ring pair sandwiching a small ring. On a side note: increasing the Spinal Grains to 1-2-1-2 (Parallel Grain), and 2-2-2-2 (Double Grain): including Mirror Lean, Layer Lean, Layer Step, and Layer Twist is possible, but will only work in sheet form, and -very- ring size-specifically. More information on weave grains can be found in the article Grains and Grain Transformations (https://chainmaillers.com/resources/431/).
Upper band:
Spinal Grain: Lean
Orbital Grain: Mirror Lean
Middle band:
Spinal Grain: Step
Orbital Grain: Layer Lean
Lower band:
Spinal Grain: Twist
Orbital Grain: Step
Ring Sizes:
The three bands made for this tutorial use the AR combination (3.2, 4.8) in a single, measured wire diameter (.080"). HOWEVER, when I originally made these weaves, I used a snugger (3.1, 4.7) and the results were better, especially where AR-locking took place. 4.8 was chosen specifically for this demonstration to utilize colour (anodized aluminum). That said, (3.1, 4.7) might be a bit tight to expand the lower band into a sheet because of the Twist Spinal Grain. If the Orbital Grain is Layered Lean, as in the middle band, there can be some minor ring shifting, and this can occur at (3.2, 4.8).
I've used an increased combination of (3.3, 4.9) in a few cases with Twist Spinal Grain, and the extra space helped to accommodate the added connections, especially when expanding into a sheet. The AR difference between the large and small rings doesn't have to be 1.6, even though the three ring size combinations listed above happen to share this characteristic. Increasing the difference between the two brings it dangerously close to the point by which the small ring can slip through the orbital ring, which obviously must be avoided.
Indeed, these weaves are ring size specific, and I'm leaving ring size refinement up to the reader. The sizes listed above are just to get you started. This article is mostly offered as a "theoretical tutorial", if that makes any sense. If you find any of this even remotely intimidating, there are plenty of other weave tutorials out there that are easier to follow.
Tutorial:
Step 1:
Start by making an orbital connection using these three rings. The orbital ring is purple.
Step 2:
Make a second orbital connection to the small ring. This is the starter piece (a single cell) for each version of the weave. This is also a very short segment of Orbital Chain (https://chainmaillers.com/maillepedia/1807/).
Step 3:
Add a purple ring to one of the large end rings.
Step 4:
Place the small closed ring at what will become the core of the band, then make a connection with the larger ring, ensuring the purple ring added in step 3 ends up held orbitally in between the two rings being added.
UPPER, MIDDLE: Note that the upper and middle bands have the large edge ring added in this step layered behind (under) their predecessors.
LOWER: Since this band will have twist grain, the large ring added in this step also passes through its predecessor.
Step 5:
Add a purple ring.
UPPER: In the upper band, it goes around the lower edge ring, so that the two orbital rings in the previous cell will be pushed next to each other to initiate Mirror Lean Grain.
MIDDLE, LOWER: This ring doesn't connect to any previous ring and will be held in place by the connection made in the next step. This is why they're shown closed in the previous picture. Hold the ring in place while making the following connection.
Step 6:
Add the next ring by making an orbital connection to complete the second cell. This mostly stabilizes the weave at this point.
UPPER, MIDDLE: the edge rings can likely be shifted between positions, although it could be tricky if the ARs are rather well refined. Either Lean configuration (both edge rows leaning the same way, or alternating lean direction) will work with any Orbital Grain.
UPPER: Note that the ring is layered above, and is thus leaning against its predecessor. Also note that this ring only passes through one ring: the small one in the middle.
MIDDLE: Note that the ring added is layered below, and that its predecessor is leaning against it. This ring passes through the small ring in the middle, as well as a purple orbital ring from the first cell.
LOWER: The ring added in this step connects to the small ring, the purple ring in the previous cell, and also to the edge ring that precedes it, paying attention to chirality (direction of twist).
Step 7:
Add the first purple orbital grain ring to the previous edge ring on the correct side.
UPPER, MIDDLE: Add the ring to the upper row.
LOWER: Add the ring to the lower row.
Step 8:
Similar to Step 4, use the small closed ring and the larger ring to make a connection with the purple ring orbital.
UPPER: Layer the large ring behind the previous one to maintain the lean row.
MIDDLE: Make sure the ring added is layered above the previous one to initiate Step Grain.
LOWER: The orbital connection is made to the lower row in this band. Also connect the large ring in this step to its predecessor, maintaining the twist direction demonstrated in the picture. If you were to twist it the other way, it would initiate Spiral Grain.
Step 9:
Add a purple ring.
UPPER: Connect the ring to the edge ring of the previous cell at the bottom.
MIDDLE, LOWER: Place the closed ring in the appropriate position. This will be secured in the next step.
Step 10:
Complete the third cell by making the second orbital connection.
UPPER: Make sure this ring is layered above its predecessor to maintain Lean Grain. It only passes through the small core ring.
MIDDLE: Make sure this ring is layered above its predecessor to maintain Step Grain. Connect it to the small core ring, and the previous purple ring.
LOWER: Make sure this ring passes through the small ring, the purple ring in the previous cell, and also the edge ring, Twist Grain maintaining.
Step 11:
Add a purple ring.
Step 12:
Make the first orbital connection of the fourth cell.
UPPER: Layer the larger ring behind its predecessor to maintain Lean Grain.
MIDDLE: Layer the larger ring behind its predecessor to maintain Step Grain.
LOWER: Make sure the larger ring maintains Twist Grain by intersecting its predecessor.
Step 13:
Connect (UPPER), or place (MIDDLE, LOWER) a purple orbital ring accordingly.
Step 14:
Complete the final orbital connection to finish off the fourth cell maintaining the correct Lean, Step, or Twist Grain.
UPPER: Connect through only the small core ring.
MIDDLE: Connect through the small core ring, and the previous purple ring.
LOWER: Connect through the small core ring, the previous purple ring, and the previous edge ring.
Repeat as necessary to lengthen.
Now that you've completed the Orbital Bands Tutorial, try other grain combinations and/or the Orbital Sheets Tutorial (https://chainmaillers.com/resources/orbital-sheets.441/).
Weave Structure/Grain Theory:
These bands are differentiated by their "Grain" types, which affect their overall appearance and behaviour. The outside edges of the band (plain aluminum) will be referred to as the "Spinal Grain". The purple rings make up the "Orbital Grain". Sandwiched in between each pair of orbital rings is a much smaller ring. Each band contains five rings per cell. Grain types are interchangeable, which increases the number of possibilities considerably beyond the three demonstrated in this article.
Four Spinal Grain types are possible (when the edge rings are singled): Lean, Step, Twist, and Spiral, the former two of which use "AR-locking". The Orbital Grain of these bands, on the other hand must be doubled, with each orbital ring pair sandwiching a small ring. On a side note: increasing the Spinal Grains to 1-2-1-2 (Parallel Grain), and 2-2-2-2 (Double Grain): including Mirror Lean, Layer Lean, Layer Step, and Layer Twist is possible, but will only work in sheet form, and -very- ring size-specifically. More information on weave grains can be found in the article Grains and Grain Transformations (https://chainmaillers.com/resources/431/).
Upper band:
Spinal Grain: Lean
Orbital Grain: Mirror Lean
Middle band:
Spinal Grain: Step
Orbital Grain: Layer Lean
Lower band:
Spinal Grain: Twist
Orbital Grain: Step
Ring Sizes:
The three bands made for this tutorial use the AR combination (3.2, 4.8) in a single, measured wire diameter (.080"). HOWEVER, when I originally made these weaves, I used a snugger (3.1, 4.7) and the results were better, especially where AR-locking took place. 4.8 was chosen specifically for this demonstration to utilize colour (anodized aluminum). That said, (3.1, 4.7) might be a bit tight to expand the lower band into a sheet because of the Twist Spinal Grain. If the Orbital Grain is Layered Lean, as in the middle band, there can be some minor ring shifting, and this can occur at (3.2, 4.8).
I've used an increased combination of (3.3, 4.9) in a few cases with Twist Spinal Grain, and the extra space helped to accommodate the added connections, especially when expanding into a sheet. The AR difference between the large and small rings doesn't have to be 1.6, even though the three ring size combinations listed above happen to share this characteristic. Increasing the difference between the two brings it dangerously close to the point by which the small ring can slip through the orbital ring, which obviously must be avoided.
Indeed, these weaves are ring size specific, and I'm leaving ring size refinement up to the reader. The sizes listed above are just to get you started. This article is mostly offered as a "theoretical tutorial", if that makes any sense. If you find any of this even remotely intimidating, there are plenty of other weave tutorials out there that are easier to follow.
Tutorial:
Step 1:
Start by making an orbital connection using these three rings. The orbital ring is purple.
Step 2:
Make a second orbital connection to the small ring. This is the starter piece (a single cell) for each version of the weave. This is also a very short segment of Orbital Chain (https://chainmaillers.com/maillepedia/1807/).
Step 3:
Add a purple ring to one of the large end rings.
Step 4:
Place the small closed ring at what will become the core of the band, then make a connection with the larger ring, ensuring the purple ring added in step 3 ends up held orbitally in between the two rings being added.
UPPER, MIDDLE: Note that the upper and middle bands have the large edge ring added in this step layered behind (under) their predecessors.
LOWER: Since this band will have twist grain, the large ring added in this step also passes through its predecessor.
Step 5:
Add a purple ring.
UPPER: In the upper band, it goes around the lower edge ring, so that the two orbital rings in the previous cell will be pushed next to each other to initiate Mirror Lean Grain.
MIDDLE, LOWER: This ring doesn't connect to any previous ring and will be held in place by the connection made in the next step. This is why they're shown closed in the previous picture. Hold the ring in place while making the following connection.
Step 6:
Add the next ring by making an orbital connection to complete the second cell. This mostly stabilizes the weave at this point.
UPPER, MIDDLE: the edge rings can likely be shifted between positions, although it could be tricky if the ARs are rather well refined. Either Lean configuration (both edge rows leaning the same way, or alternating lean direction) will work with any Orbital Grain.
UPPER: Note that the ring is layered above, and is thus leaning against its predecessor. Also note that this ring only passes through one ring: the small one in the middle.
MIDDLE: Note that the ring added is layered below, and that its predecessor is leaning against it. This ring passes through the small ring in the middle, as well as a purple orbital ring from the first cell.
LOWER: The ring added in this step connects to the small ring, the purple ring in the previous cell, and also to the edge ring that precedes it, paying attention to chirality (direction of twist).
Step 7:
Add the first purple orbital grain ring to the previous edge ring on the correct side.
UPPER, MIDDLE: Add the ring to the upper row.
LOWER: Add the ring to the lower row.
Step 8:
Similar to Step 4, use the small closed ring and the larger ring to make a connection with the purple ring orbital.
UPPER: Layer the large ring behind the previous one to maintain the lean row.
MIDDLE: Make sure the ring added is layered above the previous one to initiate Step Grain.
LOWER: The orbital connection is made to the lower row in this band. Also connect the large ring in this step to its predecessor, maintaining the twist direction demonstrated in the picture. If you were to twist it the other way, it would initiate Spiral Grain.
Step 9:
Add a purple ring.
UPPER: Connect the ring to the edge ring of the previous cell at the bottom.
MIDDLE, LOWER: Place the closed ring in the appropriate position. This will be secured in the next step.
Step 10:
Complete the third cell by making the second orbital connection.
UPPER: Make sure this ring is layered above its predecessor to maintain Lean Grain. It only passes through the small core ring.
MIDDLE: Make sure this ring is layered above its predecessor to maintain Step Grain. Connect it to the small core ring, and the previous purple ring.
LOWER: Make sure this ring passes through the small ring, the purple ring in the previous cell, and also the edge ring, Twist Grain maintaining.
Step 11:
Add a purple ring.
Step 12:
Make the first orbital connection of the fourth cell.
UPPER: Layer the larger ring behind its predecessor to maintain Lean Grain.
MIDDLE: Layer the larger ring behind its predecessor to maintain Step Grain.
LOWER: Make sure the larger ring maintains Twist Grain by intersecting its predecessor.
Step 13:
Connect (UPPER), or place (MIDDLE, LOWER) a purple orbital ring accordingly.
Step 14:
Complete the final orbital connection to finish off the fourth cell maintaining the correct Lean, Step, or Twist Grain.
UPPER: Connect through only the small core ring.
MIDDLE: Connect through the small core ring, and the previous purple ring.
LOWER: Connect through the small core ring, the previous purple ring, and the previous edge ring.
Repeat as necessary to lengthen.
Now that you've completed the Orbital Bands Tutorial, try other grain combinations and/or the Orbital Sheets Tutorial (https://chainmaillers.com/resources/orbital-sheets.441/).
