Photo Tutorial Inverted Round Maille

Author's Note
Our projects were very popular during the lifetime of our business and we wanted to ensure they continued to provide inspiration for chain maillers whatever their experience. It's a pleasure to see they will live on with Chainmaillers.com
-Sarah Austin

Inverted Round Maille​

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Materials​

For a 20cm bracelet, you will need:

• 66 red saw cut anodised aluminium jump rings, ID 5mm, WD 1.2mm
• 66 silver saw cut anodised aluminium jump rings, ID 5mm, WD 1.2mm
• silver plated jubilee heart Tierracast toggle

Tools:

• pins and foam (such as the top of a pin box), a bead mat or a cushion
• two pairs of smooth jawed chain nose, flat nose, or bent nose pliers

Note: Inverted round maille is a tricky weave to start off and this is why it is pinned down. Once you have made your first chain, make it a little longer and detach from the bracelet length. You can then use this as your starter chain every time you weave inverted round maille and begin at step 4.

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Instructions​

1. Close three red rings. Link alternate silver and red rings into a circle. Pin the silver rings to your foam or your bead mat. Make sure the rings are positioned as in the picture.
   
   
   
   
   
2. Link one silver ring through each of the red rings. The rings added have been marked with a green spot in the picture.
   
   
   
   
   
3. Link one red ring through each of the silver rings added in the previous step. The red rings added have been marked with a green spot in the picture.
   
   
   
   
   
4. Open three silver and three red rings in readiness for the next steps.
   
   Remove the rings from your foam or bead mat and hold between the thumb and forefinger of your non-dominant hand.
   
   
   
   
   
5. The weave is the same as in steps 2-3 but you will now continue with the chain held between your thumb and forefinger.
   
   Link one silver ring through two red rings.
   
   
   
   
   
6. Link the remaining two silver rings through the red rings.
   
   
   
   
   
7. Repeat steps 5-6, adding sets of three red and three silver rings until the chain is nearly the corrrect size for your wrist (steps 8 and 9 will make the chain longer). End with red rings.
   
   
8. Link two silver rings through pairs of red rings as shown.
   
   
   
   
   
9. Using one red ring, link the two silver rings just added and attach the toggle ring before closing. Repeat at the other end of the bracelet using alternate red and silver rings to attach the toggle bar.
   
   

Variations​

• Make the chain with bands of colours rather than alternate colours.
• Try silver and a rainbow mix of colours for a vibrant chain.
• Use alternate shades of a similar colour such as ice blue and royal blue.

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©2021 Sarah Austin. All rights reserved.