Photo Tutorial Byzantine Crosses Cuff

Author's Note
Our projects were very popular during the lifetime of our business and we wanted to ensure they continued to provide inspiration for chain maillers whatever their experience. It's a pleasure to see they will live on with Chainmaillers.com
-Sarah Austin

Byzantine Crosses Cuff​

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Materials​

For an 18cm cuff, you will need:

• 320 small silver anodised aluminium saw cut jump rings, ID 4.2mm, WD 1.2mm
• 18 large silver anodised aluminium saw cut jump rings, ID 6.7mm, WD 1.2mm
• 16 rose pink anodised aluminium saw cut jump rings, ID 6.7mm, WD 1.2mm
• 22 edge silver anodised aluminium saw cut jump rings, ID 5mm, WD 1.2mm
• silver plated 4-strand clasp

For an 18cm small ring cuff, you will need:

• 480 small silver anodised aluminium saw cut jump rings, ID 3mm, WD 0.81mm
• 26 large silver anodised aluminium saw cut jump rings, ID 4.2mm, WD 0.81mm
• 24 rose pink anodised aluminium saw cut jump rings, ID 4.2mm, WD 0.81mm
• 52 edge silver anodised aluminium saw cut jump rings, ID 3.6mm, WD 0.81mm
• silver plated 2-strand clasp

Tools:

• two pairs of smooth jawed chain nose, flat nose, or bent nose pliers

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Instructions​

1. Close 22 and open 18 small silver id 4mm, 1.2mm jump rings.
   
   To make a 5-link 2-in-2 chain: Link four closed silver rings with two silver rings (id 4mm, 1.2mm). Using two more small silver rings, link two small silver closed rings to the end of the chain. Make three 5-link 2-in-2 chains.
   
   To make one 4-link 2-in-2 chain: Link four closed silver rings with two silver rings (id 4mm, 1.2mm). Add two small silver rings to the end of the chain.
   
   
   
   
   
2. The rings added in the following steps are shown in red for clarity.
   
   Take one 5-link 2-in-2 chain and fold back the end pair of rings. Weave one large silver ring between the end pair of rings and through the rings you have just folded back (as in the Byzantine weave). The picture shows this from above (left-hand) and from the side (right-hand).
   
   
   
   
   
3. Repeat step 2 to add two more 5-link 2-in-2 chains to the same large silver ring and close the large silver ring. Weave a second large silver ring following the same pathway as the first large silver ring.
   
   
   
   
   
4. Take the 4-link 2-in-2 chain and part the pair of rings at one end of the chain and place on either side of the two large silver centre rings. Weave one small silver ring through the intersection of the small and large silver rings as shown (left-hand picture).
   
   Technique hint: You might find it easier to weave this tricky ring in the following way. Link the small silver ring to the top end-rings of the 4-link 2-in-2 chain. Weave through the large silver centre rings so that just the tip of the small weaving ring sticks out the other side. Flip the bottom end-rings of the chain up to the weaving ring and move the weaving ring so that it captures this last ring. Close the small silver ring.
   
   On the other side of the chain, weave a second small silver ring through the intersection of the small and large silver rings as shown (centre picture)
   
   Technique hint: Normally jump rings are opened so they are just wide enough to link to another ring. You may find it easier to weave this ring if you open your weaving ring slightly more than usual.
   
   The right-hand picture shows the finished step without the red rings.
   
   
   
   
   
5. Link one large rose pink ring through one end-ring of the chain, through the folded back ring on the same chain and the folded back ring on the opposite chain and finally through the last end-ring (left-hand picture).
   
   Repeat on the opposite side with a second large rose pink ring (right-hand picture).
   
   
   
   
   
6. Repeat steps 1-5 to make eight components.
   
   
7. To join the components, use the edge silver rings, id 5mm, 1.2mm. Fold back the end-rings at one of the corners of a component. Weave one edge silver ring between the end pair of rings and through the rings you have just folded back. Fold back the end-rings at one of the corners of a second component and continue to weave the same edge silver ring between the end pair of rings and through the rings you have just folded back. Close the ring (left-hand picture).
   
   Repeat on the opposite corner of the components (right-hand picture).
   
   
   
   
   
8. Repeat step 6 to join all the components.
   
   
   
   
   
9. To finish the last chains of the components at the ends of the cuff: fold back the end rings of one of the chains and weave two edge silver rings between the end pair of rings and through the rings you have just folded back (as shown with the red rings). Repeat for each of the four end chains.
   
   
   
   
   
10. Using one large silver ring, weave through the folded back rings at each end of the cuff as in step 5 (this ring is shown in silver).
    
    To attach the clasp, use small silver rings. Link the first clasp loop to one pair of edge rings, the second and third clasp loops to the centre large silver ring, and the fourth clasp loop to the last pair of edge silver rings.
    
    

Variations​

• Make a cuff using black rings and silver or gold accent rings in place of the rose pink.
• When making the components, attach chains of contrasting colours such as royal and ice blue. When joining the components, join matching colours for a cuff of alternating diamonds. Use a neutral edge ring such as silver.

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©2021 Sarah Austin. All rights reserved.