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Photo Tutorial Byzantine

Author's Note
Our projects were very popular during the lifetime of our business and we wanted to ensure they continued to provide inspiration for chain maillers whatever their experience. It's a pleasure to see they will live on with Chainmaillers.com
-Sarah Austin

Byzantine

A popular weave, which can be used in a wide variety of ways. The tricky part of the weave where you fold back rings and create a ‘knot’ may take a little persevering, but it is worth the effort. The weave is essentially knots joined together with linking rings.​

Which rings?
The key to success with the Byzantine weave is getting the correct ring size. Too low an aspect ratio and the inner diameter will be too small to allow the rings to link together to create the knot. Too high an aspect ratio and the inner diameter of your jump ring will be too large to hold the shape of the weave – the chain will collapse making it difficult to learn how to form this weave. - Aim for an aspect ratio of between 3.1 to 4.3.
- Near the lower end of this aspect ratio range, you may find that you can only fit one linking ring between each knot.
- At the higher end of this aspect ratio range, you may find that you may want to use three linking rings.

The above are suggestions to guide you as you begin using the Byzantine weave in your jewellery making. Once you have gained experience, you will be able to experiment with ring sizes.

BEADED BYZANTINE BRACELET

1613671100478.png

Materials

For a 17.5cm bracelet, you will need:
  • (A) - 72 bronze jump rings, ID 4mm, WD 1.29mm
  • (B) - 2-6 bronze jump rings, ID 3mm, WD 0.81mm
  • (C) - 4 oval Czech glass beads with goldstone, 12x9mm, or other large beads
  • one copper plated toggle
  • four copper eyepins
  • one 5cm headpin and one 5cm eyepin or two pieces of spare wire (you will need to make a loop on the end of one piece)
Tools:
  • Two pairs of smooth faced chain nose or flat nose pliers
Note: Steps 1 to 15 refer to the larger jump rings. Before you begin, you may like to close two jump rings and open 70 jump rings. You will be making three short lengths of Byzantine chain.

Instructions

  1. Open one jump ring and link two closed rings and your eyepin. Close the jump ring.
    1613671123558.png


  2. Open one jump ring and link it through the two closed rings added in step 1. Close the jump ring.
    1613671134896.png


  3. Repeat step 2.
    1613671146976.png


  4. Fold back the two rings added in steps 2 and 3.
    1613671183901.png


  5. Place your headpin between the two closed rings from step 1 and the rings that you have folded back.
    1613671193296.png


  6. Using a headpin will help you position the next ring added. This is the key part of the weave; at first you may find it tricky.

    This picture shows an end view of the chain, and the picture is rotated through 90 degrees.
    1613671204386.png


  7. Place an open jump ring through the closed rings added in step 1, following the path of the headpin. You can let the headpin slip from its position once you have the jump ring in place. Close the jump ring.
    1613671219507.png


  8. Repeat step 7. You will not need to use your headpin in this step. The rings added in steps 7 and 8 will be the linking rings between two knots. They are also the rings that hold the knot.
    1613671231164.png


  9. Add two jump rings to the closed rings added in steps 7 and 8.
    1613671241025.png


  10. Add two jump rings to the closed rings added in step 9.
    1613671251365.png


  11. Fold back the rings added in step 10. Use your headpin to hold the rings in position as in steps 5 and 6. Link two rings to the jump rings added in step 9 in the same way that you linked the rings in steps 7 and 8.

    Repeat steps 9-11 two more times. Note: the second time that you repeat step 11, only add one linking ring.
    1613671262584.png


  12. Repeat steps 1-11 so that you have three lengths of chain.
    1613671274750.png


  13. Thread one bead onto an eyepin.
    1613671286133.png


  14. Make a loop flush to the bead. Repeat steps 13 and 14, three more times.

    For how to make a loop, go to the centre of making basic loops page.
    1613671303695.png


  15. Open the eyepin loop, join one length of Byzantine chain and close the eyepin loop.

    For how to open and close loops, go to the bottom of making basic loops page. Repeat until you have joined all four beads to your chain lengths.

    Look at the main picture at the start of the project if you are unsure about where to put the beads.
    1613671320048.png


  16. Connect the toggle ring to one end of your bracelet. If you wish, you could use a small jump ring to link them together.
    1613671337207.png


  17. You will need to use at least two small jump rings to attach the toggle bar. This will ensure that there is enough loose chain to allow the toggle bar to go through the toggle ring.
    1613671354767.png

Variations

  • Beaded Byzantine bracelet made with topaz glass oval beads with goldstone.
    1613671365474.png


  • Use coloured rings - Bright aluminium jump rings for the knots and anodised jump rings for the linking rings (ID 4mm, WD 1.29mm).
    1613671386006.png


  • Use coloured rings - Anodised niobium jump rings for the knots and sterling silver for the linking rings (ID 4.1mm, WD 1.29mm).
    1613671397897.png


  • Place a single Byzantine knot between beads. This works best with jump rings with an aspect ratio that allows only one linking ring as the knot will hold its form better.

    Enamelled copper jump rings (ID 3.3mm, WD 1.02mm)

    1613671410478.png


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©2021 Sarah Austin. All rights reserved.
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