Author's Note
Our projects were very popular during the lifetime of our business and we wanted to ensure they continued to provide inspiration for chain maillers whatever their experience. It's a pleasure to see they will live on with Chainmaillers.com
-Sarah Austin
Note: A kinged weave is when two rings, instead of one, are used each time in a weave.
Make a pair of matching earrings. For instructions, click here.
Note: The earring instructions show bi-colour earrings. To use three colours (to match this necklace), such as silver and gold with black, use gold on the outer edge rings and silver in the centre.
For the instructions below B = black, G = gold and S = silver
TIP: Once you begin the diagonal pattern, this is an easy way to keep track of whether you should be weaving gold or silver. Each block of colour is made up of four columns of gold or silver. If you have a column of four of one colour, you need to weave using the alternate colour.
If you found this tutorial helpful: Please let other users know, leave a rating.
©2021 Sarah Austin. All rights reserved.
Our projects were very popular during the lifetime of our business and we wanted to ensure they continued to provide inspiration for chain maillers whatever their experience. It's a pleasure to see they will live on with Chainmaillers.com
-Sarah Austin
Kinged European 4-1 V-Necklace
Create this chevron pattern using a dark colour as a background and two contrasting colours. Make two lengths and join kinged European 4-1 on the bias (it's not as difficult as it sounds)!Note: A kinged weave is when two rings, instead of one, are used each time in a weave.
Make a pair of matching earrings. For instructions, click here.
Note: The earring instructions show bi-colour earrings. To use three colours (to match this necklace), such as silver and gold with black, use gold on the outer edge rings and silver in the centre.
Materials
For an 44cm (17 inch) necklace, you will need:- 236 silver anodised aluminium saw cut jump rings, ID 4.2mm, WD 0.81mm
- 236 gold anodised aluminium saw cut jump rings, ID 4.2mm, WD 0.81mm
- 472 black anodised aluminium saw cut jump rings, ID 4.2mm, WD 0.81mm
- 2 gold anodised aluminium saw cut jump rings, ID 3.8mm, WD 1.00mm - clasp rings
- gold plated keepsake Tierracast toggle, 9x13mm
- two pairs of smooth jawed chain nose, flat nose, or bent nose pliers
Instructions
When making kinged European 4-1 in two colours, it is important to link the rings in the correct colour order to obtain the same effect as in the project.For the instructions below B = black, G = gold and S = silver
TIP: Once you begin the diagonal pattern, this is an easy way to keep track of whether you should be weaving gold or silver. Each block of colour is made up of four columns of gold or silver. If you have a column of four of one colour, you need to weave using the alternate colour.
- Open one gold ring and, with this ring, link eight closed rings in this order: G, B, G, B, B, G, B, G. Note the order is not strictly alternate.
Position the rings as shown in the left hand picture, making sure that you orientate the rings in exactly the same way.
Following the same pathway, link one black ring in front of the gold ring and through the same eight rings (right hand picture).
- Close two gold and two black rings and open one gold and one black ring.
Weave one open gold ring through the lower gold and black left hand rings and through the lower gold and black right hand rings. Add the four closed rings in this colour order: G, B, B, G (left hand picture).
Following the same pathway, link one black ring in front of the gold ring and through the same four rings (right hand picture).
- You will now widen the piece you have made so far. Close two gold and two black rings and open one gold and one black ring.
Weave one open gold ring through the second and then first pair of gold and black edge rings of your strip. Link the four closed rings in this colour order: B, G, B, G (left hand picture).
Following the same pathway, link one black ring in front of the gold ring and through the same four rings (right hand picture).
- Close one gold and one black ring and open one gold and one black ring.
Weave one gold ring through the third pair of gold and black edge rings of your strip, then second pair of edge rings of the strip, and through the last pair of gold and black rings added. Add the two closed rings in this colour order: B, G so that the G ring is on top (left hand picture).
Following the same pathway, link one black ring in front of the gold ring (right hand picture).
- You will now shape the top of the strip, which will form the clasp end of the strip.
Turn your rectangular piece through 180 degrees. Check that it looks like the left hand picture.
Open two gold and two black rings. Weave one black ring through the first two pairs of gold and black rings. Repeat through the second and third pairs of gold and black rings (centre picture).
Following the same pathway, link one gold ring beneath each black ring just added. You may find it easier to weave the gold rings by turning the rectangular piece over. Check that your rectangular piece is identical to the right hand picture in terms of ring orientation and whether the gold and black are sitting in the correct colour order.
- Open one gold and one black ring.
Weave one black ring through the last two pairs of gold and black rings just added and through an eyepin before closing the black ring (left hand picture). The eyepin will help you know which end of the strip you are working on.
Following the same pathway, link one gold ring in front of the black ring and through the eyepin just added (centre picture).
Turn your piece through 180 degrees. Check that it looks like the right hand picture.
- In the next row (steps 7-8) you will begin adding the second contrast colour.
Open two gold and two black rings. Close one silver, two gold and three black rings.
Weave one gold ring through the first two pairs of gold and black rings. Link four closed rings in this colour order: S, B, B, G. Close the gold ring (left hand picture).
Following the same pathway, link one black ring in front of the gold ring just added (right hand picture).
- Weave one gold ring through the last two centre pairs of black and gold rings, and through the end pair of black and gold rings. Add the two closed rings in this colour order: B, G (left hand picture).
Following the same pathway, link one black ring in front of the gold ring (right hand picture).
- Open one gold, one silver and two black rings. Close two silver, one gold and three black rings.
Weave one silver ring through the first two pairs of silver/gold and black rings. Link four closed rings in this colour order: S, B, B, S. Close the silver ring.
Following the same pathway, weave one black ring in front of the silver ring just added.
Complete the row by weaving one gold ring through the last two centre pairs of black and silver/gold rings, and through the end pair of black and gold rings. Add two closed rings in this colour order: B, G.
Following the same pathway, link one black ring in front of the gold ring just added.
Your chain maille piece is now set up for the 8 row pattern repeat (steps 10-11) that will lengthen the necklace chain.
***PATTERN REPEAT #1 (Steps 10 & 11)***
- The very first set of four rows continues to set up the pattern. As a result, the TIP at the beginning of the instructions should be ignored. Thereafter, the easiest way of keeping to pattern is to apply the TIP.
Open one gold, seven silver and eight black rings. Close three gold, nine silver and twelve black rings.
Rows 1 and 2 (pic 1 and 2): Weave one S ring through the first two pairs of rings and add four closed rings: S, B, B, S. Repeat with one B ring.
Weave one S ring and add two closed rings: B, S. Repeat with one B ring.
Row 3 (pic 3): Weave one S ring through the first two pairs of rings and add four closed rings: G, B, B, S. Repeat with one B ring.
Weave one S ring and add two closed rings: B, S. Repeat with one B ring.
Row 4 (pic 4): Weave one G ring through the first two pairs of rings and add four closed rings: G, B, B, G. Repeat with one B ring.
Weave one S ring and add two closed rings: B, S. Repeat with one B ring.
Check that your piece is the same as the last picture to ensure that the pattern repeat is correct. If you have gone wrong at this stage, the pattern repeat will be repeatedly wrong!
- The second part of the pattern repeat is the same as in step 10 with the silver rings substituted for gold and vice versa.
Open one silver, seven gold and eight black rings. Close three silver, nine gold and twelve black rings.
Rows 1 and 2 (pic 1 and 2): Weave one G ring through the first two pairs of rings and add four closed rings: G, B, B, G. Repeat with one B ring.
Weave one G ring and add two closed rings: B, G. Repeat with one B ring.
Row 3 (pic 3): Weave one G ring through the first two pairs of rings and add four closed rings: S, B, B, G. Repeat with one B ring.
Weave one G ring and add two closed rings: B, G. Repeat with one B ring.
Row 4 (pic 4): Weave one S ring through the first two pairs of rings and add four closed rings: S, B, B, S. Repeat with one B ring.
Weave one G ring and add two closed rings: B, G. Repeat with one B ring.
Check that your piece is the same as the last picture to ensure that the pattern repeat is correct.
- Repeat steps 10-11 until you have completed twelve chevrons ending with a gold chevron (pic 4, step 11).
- In this step, you will finish off this first length with a diagonal edge. This will be joined to the second strip in steps 23-27 to form the v-shape of the necklace.
Open three silver and three black rings. Close three silver and three black ring.
Pic 1: Weave one S ring through the first two pairs of rings and add two closed rings: B, S. Repeat with one B ring. Position the loose rings just added to the right.
Weave one S ring through the two pairs of centre rings and add two closed rings: B, S. Repeat with one B ring.
Pic 2: Weave one S ring through the right hand two pairs of rings and add two closed rings: B, S. Repeat with one B ring. Position the loose rings just added to the right.
- In steps 14 and 21, you will be making a second strip. The second strip differs from the first. This is to ensure that that you can join the two strips together to form the V-shape, keeping to the same colour order of silver/gold on top or beneath the black as well as keeping the same ring orientation. It is important that your ring colour order and orientation are the same as the pictures in order to complete the necklace successfully.
Close six gold, three silver and nine black rings and open three gold, one silver and four black rings.
Pic 1: Weave one S ring through eight closed rings in this order: S, B, S, B, B, G, B, S. Note the order is not strictly alternate. Repeat with one one B ring. Position the rings as shown, making sure that you orientate the rings in exactly the same way.
Pic 2: Weave one G ring through the lower S and B left hand rings and through the lower G and B right hand rings. Add four closed rings in this colour order: G, B, B, G. Repeat with one one B ring.
Pic 3: You will now widen the piece you have made so far. Weave one G ring through the second pair of G and B edge rings of your strip and then first pair of S and B rings. Link the four closed rings in this colour order: B, G, B, G. Repeat with one one B ring.
Pic 4: Weave one G ring through the third pair of G and B edge rings of your strip, then second pair of edge rings of the strip, and through the last pair of G and B rings added. Add the two closed rings in this colour order: B, G. Repeat with one one B ring.
- In steps 15-17 you will shape the end with a diagonal edge which will be joined to the first strip in step 23-27 to form the v-shape of the necklace.
Rotate the piece you made in step 14 by 180 degrees. Check that your piece matches the left hand picture.
Close two S and two B rings and open one S and one B ring.
Weave one B ring through the first two pairs of rings. Link four closed rings in this colour order: B, S, S, B (centre picture).
Repeat with one one S ring beneath the B ring just added (right hand picture) - you may find it easier to turn the piece over to do this.
- Open one S and one B ring.
Weave one B ring through the last two centre pairs of B and S rings, and through the end pair of B and S rings. Do not add any rings (left hand picture).
Repeat with one S ring beneath the B ring just added (right hand picture).
- Close one S and one B rings and open one S and one B ring.
Weave one B ring through the first two pairs of S and B rings. Link two closed rings in this colour order: B, S (left hand picture).
Repeat with one S ring beneath the B ring just added (centre picture).
Rotate your piece by 180 degrees and check that it looks the same as the right hand picture. Add an eyepin or piece of wire so that you know which is the end of your strip.
- Step 18 sets up your chain maille piece so that you are able to start the 8 row pattern repeat (steps 19-20).
Open five gold, one silver and six black rings. Close six gold, three silver and nine black rings.
Row 1 and 2 (pic 1 and 2): Weave one G ring through the first two pairs of rings and add four closed rings: G, B, B, G. Repeat with one B ring.
Weave one G ring and add two closed rings: B, G. Repeat with one B ring.
Pic 2: Weave one G ring through the first two pairs of rings and add four closed rings: G, B, B, G. Repeat with one B ring.
Weave one G ring and add two closed rings: B, S. Repeat with one B ring.
Pic 3: Weave one G ring through the first two pairs of rings and add four closed rings: G, B, B, S. Repeat with one B ring.
Weave one S ring and add two closed rings: B, S. Repeat with one B ring.
***PATTERN REPEAT #2 (Steps 19 & 20)***
- Open one gold, seven silver and eight black rings. Close three gold, nine silver and twelve black rings.
Rows 1 and 2 (pic 1 and 2): Weave one S ring through the first two pairs of rings and add four closed rings: S, B, B, S. Repeat with one B ring.
Weave one S ring and add two closed rings: B, S. Repeat with one B ring.
Row 3 (pic 3): Weave one S ring through the first two pairs of rings and add four closed rings: S, B, B, S. Repeat with one B ring.
Weave one S ring and add two closed rings: B, G. Repeat with one B ring.
Row 4 (pic 4): Weave one S ring through the first two pairs of rings and add four closed rings: S, B, B, G. Repeat with one B ring.
Weave one G ring and add two closed rings: B, G. Repeat with one B ring.
Check that your piece is the same as the last picture to ensure that the pattern repeat is correct. As before, if you have gone wrong at this stage, the pattern repeat will be repeatedly wrong!
- The second part of the pattern repeat is the same as in step 19 with the silver rings substituted for gold and vice versa.
Open one silver, seven gold and eight black rings. Close three silver, nine gold and twelve black rings.
Rows 1 and 2 (pic 1 and 2): Weave one G ring through the first two pairs of rings and add four closed rings: G, B, B, G. Repeat with one B ring.
Weave one G ring and add two closed rings: B, G. Repeat with one B ring.
Row 3 (pic 3): Weave one G ring through the first two pairs of rings and add four closed rings: G, B, B, G. Repeat with one B ring.
Weave one G ring and add two closed rings: B, S. Repeat with one B ring.
Row 4 (pic 4): Weave one G ring through the first two pairs of rings and add four closed rings: G, B, B, S. Repeat with one B ring.
Weave one S ring and add two closed rings: B, S. Repeat with one B ring.
Check that your piece is the same as the last picture to ensure that the pattern repeat is correct.
- Repeat steps 19-20 until you have completed twelve chevrons ending with a step 19 repeat.
- Open eight gold and eight black rings and close nine gold and nine black rings.
Weave three rows using G and B rings only so that the end of the strip is the same as picture 1.
Pic 2: Weave one G ring through the first two pairs of gold and black rings. Repeat through the second and third pairs of gold and black rings.
Pic 3: Repeat with B rings.
Pic 4: Weave one G ring through the last two pairs of gold and black rings just added.
Pic 5: Repeat with a B ring.
- In steps 23-27, you will be joining the two diagonal ended strips to form the V-neck. This is known as joining European 4-1 on the bias.
Position the two strips side by side. Check that they look the same as the left hand picture. Look at the very end ring - the first strip has the black ring uppermost and the second strip has the silver ring uppermost.
Turn over the right hand chain so that the chains are a mirror image (centre picture). Looking at the very end ring again, the silver ring should be uppermost on each strip.
Move both strips so that they meet to form a V-shape. You will notice that the orientation of each corresponding column of rings is the same. (right hand picture).
- For steps 24-27, the two rings added are shown in red for clarity.
Close one S and one B ring and open four S and four B rings.
IMPORTANT: To ensure continuity of pattern (in other words which colour ring is uppermost in the weave), you need to study each column as you weave and read the instructions as this will state which ring is uppermost.
Place one closed B and S ring between the lowest pair of rings of each strip - the S ring is uppermost (left hand picture).
The easiest way to add the first pair of rings is to keep your work flat on your bead mat as you weave and close the rings that you add - try not to move the strips at all! Weave one S ring through the lowest right hand pair of rings, the centre closed pair of rings just added, and the lowest left hand pair of rings. Close the S ring - you will have linked three pairs of rings with one S ring. Repeat with one B ring. The B ring is uppermost. Reposition the strips on your workmat (right hand picture).
PROBLEMS? These are perhaps the most difficult rings to add as the rings somehow move after you have picked up the working piece to close the ring. To solve this, lay the left hand chain down and position the pair of closed rings (added in the left hand picture) so that it overlays the lowest left hand pair of rings. You may have to turn the right hand strip in a full circle to orientate the lowest right hand strip into place.
- Weave one B ring through the pair of rings added in step 24 and the pairs of rings on either side - you will have linked three pairs of rings with one B ring. You can safely pick up the strips as the join is now more stable. Repeat with a S ring. The S ring is uppermost.
- Weave one S ring through the pair of rings added in step 25 and the pairs of rings on either side - you will have linked three pairs of rings with one S ring. Repeat with a B ring. The B ring is uppermost.
- Weave one B ring through the pair of rings added in step 26 and the pairs of rings on either side - you will have linked three pairs of rings with one B ring. Repeat with a S ring. The S ring is uppermost (left hand picture).
The right hand picture shows the completed v-neck join.
- Using one clasp ring each time, link the toggle ring and the toggle bar to each end of the necklace.
Variations
- Make a matching cuff, shaping the ends of your chevron strip as in steps 5-6.
- Use matt silver (white) and champagne on black.
- For a necklace with a bit of colour, try pastel colours (ice blue, ice pink, ice green and lavender) on black.
If you found this tutorial helpful: Please let other users know, leave a rating.
©2021 Sarah Austin. All rights reserved.